Saturday, December 09, 2006

Getting Spanked

That's not me on the board. But that's what the waves were like today in Santa Barbara. It was in all the newscasts. A storm was coming down the coast bringing big swells and great surf. I drove by the beach in the morning, seeing throngs of surfers out in the big swells (8-10 feet), catching waves and sailing down them, wiping out, or cutting out gracefully. I had to get in the water!
After we were done hanging the greens at church, I grabbed my borrowed wetsuit and boogey board (short little one to ride on one's belly) and headed to the beach where I swim. No more surfers were in the water, but the big waves werestill crashing into shore with lots and lots of foam. So I strapped the board to my wrist and headed into the water. Yikes! That's some powerful stuff. I got knocked this way and that, slapped up onto the beach and rolled in the sand. I headed back out into the surf, trying to stand up waist high into cresting waves, getting knocked over and under. A couple of times I made it onto the board and rode wave-foam onto the beach. I was all alone, exhilarated, and not a little bit sobered by the power of those waves. I have a long way to go till I can surf. But today I had fun getting spanked by some really serious waves.


At 6:41 PM , Anonymous BarBarA said...

I didn't know you were in Santa Barbara...great city. Yes the waves were bit in San Clemente too!

At 10:20 AM , Blogger billy said...

props to you for getting out there Donn! I just got my first surfboard (b-day present) this October after living in SB for ten years. Figured if I ever moved away I would kick myself for not giving it a shot while I had the chance.

At 12:15 AM , Blogger Gary Means said...

That is so cool that you got out there and had fun. Way to go!


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